Travel-Dealz recommends… Dandong, China

North Korea is one of the most inaccessible countries in the world. Setting foot in the country – or even just getting a glimpse of it – is very difficult for Western tourists, and frankly, not really desirable either. Over a million tourists each year make the trip from Seoul to the DMZ, the demilitarised zone between South and North Korea. But many end up slightly disappointed when they realise that apart from a border fence and a flagpole in the distance, you can’t really see much of North Korea. That’s why on my last trip to China, I decided to view the North Korean border from the Chinese side. And I can only recommend this experience, as the border city of Dandong has a lot to offer. Not only do you get an up-close view of a real North Korean city, but the Great Wall of China also ends there!

Where is Dandong?

Dandong is located in northeast China, right on the border river between China and North Korea. From Beijing, you can reach Dandong with a 4-5 hour train ride (which I split into two journeys with stops in Dalian on the way there and Shenyang on the way back). The high-speed train from Beijing costs around €50 each way.

The view of North Korea

Let’s start with the main reason I travelled to Dandong. The city lies on the Yalu River, with North Korea on the opposite bank. From the very pretty riverside promenade, you get a good view of Sinuiju, the North Korean city across the river. You can get even closer by walking halfway across the river on the Yalu River Broken Bridge or by taking one of the many tourist boats along the riverbank. Driving along the river also takes you to spots where the river is much narrower. There, you can watch North Koreans working or going for a walk without needing binoculars.

Great Wall of China without tourists – and with an end piece

The Great Wall attracts over 10 million tourists every year. The popular and well-known sections outside Beijing are therefore usually quite crowded. It’s different in Dandong. While you won’t be completely alone, you’ll rarely have more than a handful of people around you – very pleasant. But that’s not the only reason this section is worth visiting. A unique feature here is that the Great Wall ends at this point! Moreover, the wall runs right along the border, so you also get a good view of North Korea from there. For example, I was able to watch hundreds of North Korean construction workers heading from their work site to lunch.

Korean War Museum

If you don’t just want to stare at Korea but also want to learn about the history of the divided Koreas, you can visit the Memorial Hall of the War to Resist US Aggression and Aid Korea. As the name suggests, the museum is very much focused on the Chinese perspective. If you’ve visited the Korean War Memorial (or Museum) in Seoul, you will notice a stark contrast in content. Nevertheless, the museum is impressive (and free), so it’s worth at least a short visit.

Jinjiangshan Park

Finally, I can recommend Jinjiangshan Park. It’s not really an attraction you’d travel to Dandong specifically for, but if you’re already there, it’s worth adding to your list. It’s large, well-maintained, and offers not only ponds and green spaces but also – for some reason – an enclosure with bears and another with monkeys.

Conclusion

This year, I travelled a lot in China, and Dandong was definitely one of the places that left the strongest impression on me. Visiting the DMZ last year was pointless in comparison. Here, you see a real North Korean city up close – I found it impressive. And the relatively empty Great Wall, including its endpoint, was definitely a highlight for me as well.

On top of that, prices in Dandong were among the lowest I encountered on my China travels. I paid less than €30 for my hotel. And for Korean BBQ, including three additional dishes and a waitress grilling everything for me right at the table, I paid around €10. Of course, no one will travel all the way from Europe just for Dandong. But if you’re in northeast China, in my opinion, it’s worth a two-day detour.

Cover Picture: Ditmar Lange